#naturalhairtips 6/30

If you're trying to grow your hair out, the rule of trimming your hair every 3 months becomes counterproductive. Trims are necessary when factoring in the amount of manipulation but if you're utilizing protective styles the majority of the time, trims aren't required at the 3 month mark. But if you DO wear wash n gos more regularly, you will find that trims will be more frequent, although not necessarily every 3 months. It will be important to keep your ends protected and hydrated and minimize manipulation if you're seeking to retain and maintain your length. This also includes a healthy lifestyle which optimizes growth potential.

If you're noticing weak and damaged ends, it'll be to your benefit to remove those as to not affect the healthier length.

Who needs a WnG when my twist-outs look like THIS!

And on unraveled, sweaty, week-old twists at that? :) I love natural hair. :P *no flash used*









After wearing my twists for just slightly over a week, I decided last night to take them out so I can do an overnight DT, and of course it looked nice. ALWAYS looks nice when I'm getting ready to wash it. LOL!

For that week, I only used Elasta QP Olive Oil & Mango Butter Moisturizer and Kemi Oyl Conditioning Spray to treat my ends and scalp. Also used the Kemi spray to protect my hair while running out in the harsh sun.

Corinne Bailey Rae and her video for "Closer"

Gorgeous girl. Gorgeous hair. Hot song and video.
*sorry for the huge space....I can't fix that*

What relaxing and scalp tension CAN do to your hair

We have Naomi Campbell, one of THE most gorgeous women in the world. Outside of her legal troubles, she is an undeniable beauty who has made her mark in the fashion industry for more than 20 years.

But even in that, she can't escape the damage sustained from constant relaxing and weave-wearing. I'm not a dermatologist, but it appears she suffers from either(or both) chemical and traction alopecia.

It's a shame.

This pic was posted to one of my favorite natural hair websites, Naturallycurly.com, by "Shellye", who likely found this pic on the dailymail.co.uk website.

#naturalhairtips-- 6/28/10

Products may claim to repair damage, but they generally cannot. Protein-treatments(and those with silicones) fill in weakened areas of damaged strands, making them appear thicker and fuller, but they don't permanently BIND to the hair. It's a very temporary fix that once rinsed (shampooed) out, leaves you back to square one and sometimes dependent on that product to give you consistent (although short-lived) results. Damage hair can't be repaired. The best way to treat damage is to remove it and utilize a routine(which includes products) that minimizes over-manipulation which minimizes potential damage sustained.

BET Awards......Natural Hair Edition

I didn't watch the BET Awards in its entirety, mostly because it coincided with my True Blood, but I did catch enough to see some of the fabulous natural hair!

First, we have the beautiful Esperanza Spalding. I wonder if her 'fro ever DOESN'T look on point. She was flawless last night.



The always funky and eclectic Janelle Monae with her natural pompadour and gorgeous skin.



And my favorite hair-celeb under 21 that gives me hair envy....Jaden Smith.




All pictures are © by Getty Images, 2010

Shoutout to Dawn and Jaye of Nappturalite Radio!

Thanks to the ladies of Nappturalite Radio for allowing me to co-host and welcoming me into the co-hosting position with open arms. I had a blast, although I was quite nervous! I learned something today, just as I hope that those listening were able to learn a few things.

That's my ultimate goal.....to share what I've learned and to continue to learn and grow while passing on that wealth of information to those willing to listen. It's ALL about enlightenment!!

If you haven't checked them out, I definitely recommend doing so. And I don't mean just checking out their site, but listening in EVERY Sunday, at 5pm PST/6pm EST.

Nappturalite Radio

For those that missed it, here is the broadcast.

Follow-up to today’s Nappturalite Discussion

For those that tuned in, you may remember me mentioning that I’d go into further detail about HLB(Hydrophilic Lipophilic Balance) and it’s connection to the stabilization of your creams, moisturizers, lotions, etc., whether used on the hair OR the body.

HLB involves matching the oil and fatty components of your product with the appropriate emulsifier. Since oils and water do NOT mix, something is necessary in binding these ingredients. This is where emulsifiers come into play.

Oils, butters, and emulsifiers all have HLB values, and in order to keep the product stable, you have to use the correct amount of emulsifier relative to the oils used in your formula. The more oils you use, the more complicated the calculations become. So as you can see, it’s not just about adding the most nourishing oils and conditioning agents (which also act as emulsifiers) to your products. There’s just slightly more involved.

First, you have to factor in the percentage of the Oil Phase of your product formula (as there are typically three phases), and then calculate the composition of the oils in this phase in terms of their percentage. Then to calculate the required HLB of the Oil Phase, you’d have to multiply the percentage of each oil, expressed as a number, in the Oil Phase by its respective required HLB and sum those results. The sum of those results gives you the required HLB value for your entire formulation. Below, find an example of this breakdown.

Let’s say that your Oil Phase is approximately 30% of your total [hypothetical] product formula, and that 100% of your Oil phase consists of: 5% Avocado Oil, 10% Shea Butter, 5% Coconut Oil, and 10% Jojoba Oil(which equals the 30%).

The HLB values for these are:

· Avocado Oil: 7

· Shea Butter: 8

· Coconut Oil: 8

· Jojoba Oil: 6.5

Starting with the Avocado oil

If 30% = 100%

And 5% = X%

Then X = (100x5)/30%

X= 500/30

X= 16.67%

This percentage shows that avocado oil is 16.67% of the Oil Phase.

You continue to do the same for the remaining oils.

If 30% =100%

And 10% = X%

Then X = (100x10)/30

X= 1000/30

X = 33.33%

This shows that shea butter is 33.33% of the Oil Phase

If 30% = 100%

And 5% = X%

Then X = (100x5)/30%

X= 500/30

X= 16.67%

This shows that coconut oil is 16.67% of the Oil Phase

If 30% =100%

And 10% = X%

Then X = (100x10)/30

X= 1000/30

X = 33.33%

This shows that jojoba oil is 33.33% of the Oil Phase

So we NOW know that:

Avocado Oil = 5% of the formula and 16.67% of the Oil Phase

Shea Butter = 10% of the formula and 33.33% of the Oil Phase

Coconut Oil = 5% of the formula and 16.67% of the Oil Phase

Jojoba Oil = 10% of the formula and 33.33% of the Oil Phase

Now we can calculate the HLB of the Oil Phase. To do this, you have to multiply each percentage by each required HLB value and sum the results.

(16.67%/100) x 7 = 1.1669

(33.33%/100) x 8 = 2.6664

(16.67%/100 x 8 = 1.3336

(33.33%/100 x 6.5 = 2.16645

The required HLB of the Oil Phase is the sum of all of these, which equals 7.33335. This means I have to find an emulsifier that matches this HLB (± 1)

One example of an emulsifier than can be used is Lecithin. While its HLB value can vary, some have a value of 7. This makes it somewhat simple, but (yes, there IS a but) because of the limited availability of many emulsifiers to those who are kitchen khemists, you may find that you have to combine multiple emulsifiers. I’ve read that combining a high and a low HLB emulsifier garners the most stable results.

This then results in more calculations….I know, I know.

We’ll leave it here for now since there is an emulsifier that fits within the range we’re seeking. It may not be this easy, though. Which is why many small, medium and larger business have laboratories help create the final products (w/their input, of course).

So again, as you can see…..it’s a bit more complicated. Still interesting, once you figure all the numbers out. ;)

If you want to spend the money, there are actually programs that remove all of the guesswork. So, you don’t necessarily have to do all of the calculations yourself. Thought I’d mention that. LOL!